After spending nine days on the island of Oahu and three days on the island of Maui, it was time to explore our third and final island, the island of Hawaii. We landed in Kona at approximately 4:30 pm and was greeted by the one employee at an outdoor terminal. We were directed to a gate about 50 yards from the counter to obtain a phone number to call a shuttle. After we waited about 15 minutes, a shuttle arrived to drive us to the rental car companies associated with the airport. I had previously booked a rental car through Budget and a three bedroom condo on the beach in Kona through VRBO(Vacation Rental By Owner).
DAY 1
Welcome to the Island of Hawaii, also known as The Big Island.
Since we arrived in Kona late in the afternoon, we decided to head straight to the condo and stock up on groceries for the final days that we would be spending in Hawaii.
DAY 2
The place that excited us the most was Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, therefore, we decided to go there first while visiting the big island. The island is a lot larger than you think as the drive from Kona to the National Park is a little over two hours. On this morning, we woke up bright and early to arrive at the park by 9am.
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is located at 1 Crater Rim Drive Hawaii National Park, HI and the operating hours are 7am-10 pm daily, with the visitors center only being open from 9am-5pm. The park fee is $25 per vehicle.Hawaii Volcanoes National Park was established on August 1, 1916. Inside the park there are two active volcanoes, the most active being Kīlauea and the other is Mauna Loa.The Volcano Art Center is located beside the Kilauea Visitor Center.As we drove along Crater Rim Drive toward the Chain of Craters Road, we stopped to take in this view of the Kilauea’Iki Trail. If you look closely you can see the trail in the center of the Kilauea’Iki Crater.We decided to hike along the Kilauea’iki trail, which is four miles round trip. You start out in a green, lush forest as you make your way down switchbacks to the crater floor. We did not hike the entire length, we only went out into the middle of the crater floor because you have to hike back up to the parking lot.Kilauea Iki Crater means “Little Kilauea” and it erupted on November 14, 1959. The lava that we were walking on was only about 57 years old.We could see steam vents all around us while walking along Kilauea’Iki trail.Across the street from the Kilauea’Iki trailhead is the Thurston lava Tube. This takes about 20 minutes to walk through and is 1/3 mile long. The Lava tube is well lit as you enter into one side and exit out the other side.Volcanic activity over hundreds of years created the lava tube. It was discovered in 1913 by Lorrin Thurston, is 600 feet long, and has a ceiling height of 20 feet.These signs were located along both Crater Rim Drive and Chain of Craters Road.After the Thurston Lava Tube, we made our way to the Chain of Craters Road. This is a 20 mile one way drive that dead ends where lava has overtaken the road. You will then turn around and drive the 20 miles back to Crater Rim Drive. You start the drive at 4,000 feet and drive down to sea level. The view in this photo was taken at at the start of our journey down Chain of Craters Road where the ocean and sky look like they meet.During the drive there are spots to pull over for photo opportunities or to just take in the view. Here is one of the places that we pulled over for a great photo of the Chain of Craters Road.We stopped at the Kealakomo Overlook which sits on the crest of the Hōlei Pali (cliff). This is the view from the picnic table area where we ate lunch.As you near the “End of the Road” you can see the different shades of Lava. The darker spots are the newer lava that has flowed on top of the older lava.As you come to the “End of the Road” with a final decent to sea level you come upon the Ranger Station. Here is where you can park and start exploring. We started across the street where you can view the 90 foot tall Holei Sea Arch.While viewing the Sea Arch we came upon this NeNe Bird which is the Hawaii State Bird. The NeNe is in the Goose family, however they do not fly as they have weaker wings. They also have longer toes to help them climb on the rocky Hawaiian terrain.The wind was blowing so hard as we were exploring the “End of the Road,” which can be seen here with the palm trees.Past the ranger station, you can walk down to where lava flowed across the road in 1969. The road was re-opened in 1979 but the lava flow took over the road again in 1986 resulting in a permanent road closer. In 2014, workers started on an emergency, one-lane, graveled road which was open in 2016 while we were there.While driving the Chain of Craters Road back, there is a small pull off where you can see the original road from the 1970s. The lava flow across this small area is when Mauna Ulu erupted.This is an unmarked stop and you really have to look for it. While driving the Chain of Craters Road back, this stop will be on the right hand side of the road. It is a small walk down to the original road and it is worth the stop.We made our way back to Crater Rim Drive and then around to the Thomas A Jaggar Museum. The museum was built in 1985 and it is where you can see the active volcano Kilauea. We went before Kilauea erupted, therefore we were able to visit the museum which told the story of Pele, the goddess of Fire and Volcanoes.We were able to view Kilauea during the daylight hours. This was before Kilauea erupted in 2018.We decided that we wanted to see Kilauea at night and to kill some time, we decided to find a place to eat dinner. We asked the park ranger where to eat that was close by and he suggested Thai Thai Bistro and Bar in the city of Volcano, which is only about 5 miles from the Volcano National Park. The food was really good and the atmosphere was even better.After we ate, we decided to drive back to the Jaggar Museum to view Kilauea at night. Since we had already paid our admission for the day, we did not have to pay a second time to go back into the park.The lava during this time (Summer 2016) was about 200 feet from the top. As you can see, we did get a glimpse of the lava which was definitely a bucket list item for all of us. While watching the lava, it was very windy and cold. I suggest if you go back at night to take a jacket with you, even in the summer months.
DAY 3
Today, we decided to explore the southern portion of the island. Since we were staying in Kona and knew we had a big day planned, we ate breakfast and was out the door before 9am.
We took Highway 11 south all the way to S. Point Road. This was approximately a 50 mile drive. Once you turn onto S. Point Road, it is about 10 miles to the South Point Cliff Dive or the Southern Most point. There will be a fork in the road, stay to the right. It may be easier to put South Point Cliff Dive into the GPS.South Point Road will just end and that is where you park, get out, and walk around the Southern Most Point in the United States. There are no signs or markers letting you know that you are at the southern most point. It is a very secluded area with hardly any visitors.Ka Lae means “the point: in Hawaiian and in this instance it is South Point. Ka Lae is on the National Historic Landmark registry under the name South Point Complex.The wind and ocean current at South Point are very dangerous and swimming in this area is not recommended.The biggest attraction here at south point is cliff diving by the locals. Seen here is the wooden ladder where the locals climb back up after the 40 foot jump off the cliff.There are no markers or signs to show that we have been to the most southern point in the United States, however just standing on the point and gazing at the “End of the World” was so breathtaking. It was definitely a wonderful memory that we were able to experience with our family.
Once we left the “southern most point of the United States, ” we headed back on South Point Road until we came to the fork. This time we took a right rather than heading back toward Highway 11. This takes you to what is known as the “Green Sand Beach” or Papakōlea Beach.
You will again come to the end of South Point Road where you can park to either do the 2 mile hike (One way) to the green sand beach or pay a local to drive you there. We decided to pay a local to drive us to the beach.You will ride on the back of the truck and it is a bumpy ride. The cost was $15 a person and well worth the money as there is no shade during the hike.Papakōlea beach or “the Green Sand Beach” is one of only four green sand beaches in the world.You will climb down the cliff via “Stairs” to get onto the beach. The beach was formed over 49,000 years ago by lava flow from Pu’u o Mahana, an ancient cinder cone on the southwest rift of Mauna Loa Volcano.The sand is green in color due to the olivine crystals (Ferrous iron) found in certain lava flows.The Green Sand Beach was a wonderful experience and one that I highly recommend.The driver will wait about 30 minutes to let you enjoy the beach. There are dangerous undertows, therefore, they do not recommend swimming while visiting the Green Sand Beach.After visiting the southern most point and the green sand beach, we were all starving. We decided to eat at the Shaka Restaurant, also known as the Southern Most Bar in the United States. It is located at 95-5673 Mamalahoa Hwy Naalehu, HI and is open daily from 8am-9pm.The prices are about $12-15 a person. The most important thing to remember is that this is a Cash Only Restaurant
After eating a late lunch, we decided to make our way back to Kona. Along Highway 11 there is a National Historic Park called Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau which we stopped to explore.
Puuhonua o Honaunau is a National Historic Park located at State Hwy 160, Hōnaunau, HI. The visitors center is open daily from 8:30am-4:30pm and the fee is $15 per vehicle.Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau is an 420-acre place of refuge where Hawaiians who broke the sacred laws could flee to and avoid death.Puuhonua o Honaunau is one of Hawaii’s most sacred places. Seen here are the wooden statues known as Ki’i. They were placed there to guard the temple.Another wooden statue known as Ki’i.Seen here is the Keōua Stone, or Chief resting stone. It is 12.5 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 2 feet thick. Legend has it that the chief would sleep on this stone while his men were out fishing.Seen here is the “Great Wall” which is 12 feet high, 18 feet thick, and stretches 965 feet in length.The Great Wall was built sometime in the 1500’s by using a dry masonry technique where boulders and cobbles fit together like a jigsaw puzzle without using any mortar.Located here is reconstructed Halau which is a large-framed structure that was used as a shelter for the canoes.The Hale o Keawe is the Royal mausoleum where it is thought to house the bones of 23 high chiefs.Keone’ele Cove is a small cove located at the end of Hōnaunau Bay. It was used exclusively as the canoe landing for the Hawaiian Royals.After we left the historic park, we made our way to St. Benedict Roman Catholic Church located at 84-5140 Painted Church Rd, Captain Cook, HI. It was free when we visited, however, I think they charge a small fee now.The church was built in 1899 by Father John Velghe. At that time, Hawaiians could not read,therefore, Father John used paint to not only beautify the church but as a way to teach the Hawaiian people.After visiting the painted church, we continued approximately 6.5 miles north to Greenwell Farms located at 81-6581 Mamalahoa Hwy, Kealakekua, HI. Greenwell Farms is a coffee processing facility that offers free tours daily from 8:30am-4pm with no reservation required.We took the free guided walking tour of the coffee fields and processing facility. After the tour, you can enjoy free samples of 100% kona coffee. Seen here is one of the many coffee trees located on the 85 acre farm.Seen here is the original processing plant which was used by Nicholas Greenwell, the founder of Greenwell Farms in 1850. Today the coffee farm is owned and operated by the fourth generation of Greenwells.On our way back to the condo, we came across this unique store title which we had to check it out. This is the original Donkeyball Store located at 79-7407 Mamalahoa Hwy, Kealakekua, HI. Operating hours are daily 9am-6pm.Inside we were greeted with samples of over 50 flavors of chocolate. This is a factory of handmade gourmet chocolates and a store that has been in business for 15 years. This was a wonderful little gem because the chocolate was delicious.
DAY 4
While planning this trip we decided that we wanted to see as much of the island as possible. The first couple of days were spent exploring the middle and bottom of the island so the fourth day we spent exploring the top. You do not realize how large the Big Island is until you drive around the entire island. The Big Island is larger than all the other islands combined as it is 92 miles long and 76 miles wide.
The drive from Kona to Hawi is approximately 50 miles along Highway 19 connecting to Highway 270 . However, we took our time to take in the breathtaking views of the coast.Our first stop was the town of Hawi (pronounced Ha-Vee). We ate at The Kohala Coffee Mill and explored the shops of this quaint little town.After exploring Hawi, we continued along Highway 270 and came upon this King Kamehameha I Statue. This was actually the original statue that was lost when the ship carrying it sank. Another statue was then made and sent to the island of Oahu. Years later, the original statue was found and placed here on the Big Island because it is the birthplace of King Kamehameha I.We decided to stay on Highway 270 along the Kohala Coast which ends at the Pololu Valley Overlook. This view is worth the 12 mile round trip drive. There is a path that you can walk down to the black sand beach, however due to time constraints we only walked halfway down the path.After the lookout, you have to drive back to Highway 250, also known as Kohala Mountain Road, which you drive inland along the Volcano’s ridge. The interesting part about this road is how quick the scenery and climate change just a few miles apart. Along this 50 mile stretch, you will see barren hills, grasslands, and green jungles.Waipio Valley Lookout is located along the Hamakua coast. To get to this beautiful lookout, you have to drive to the end of the Hamakua Heritage Corridor. It is called Waipio Valley because the river that runs through this valley is called Waipio meaning curved water in Hawaiian.Waipio Valley was once home to thousands of native Hawaiians and today there are less than 100 living in this area. When it has rained alot, you can see the waterfall falling onto the black sand beach. We were lucky enough on this day to get a photo of it.After the stunning views of the Waipio Valley, we made our way 40 miles south to Akaka Falls State Park. Along the route of highway 220, we noticed a field of trees with no leaves. It left us with an eerie feeling.Akaka Falls State park is located at 875 Akaka Falls Rd Honomu, HI. The fee is $5/car or $1/pedestrian. The park is open daily from 8:30-am-6pm.There is a half mile, self-guided walking trail. You can take in the scenery of this gorgeous 65 acre park and then enjoy the view of the 442 feet Akaka waterfall.After leaving Akaka Falls, we drove a short 15 miles into the town of Hilo. Seen here is the Puueo Bridge located at Keawe Street in Hilo. The bridge was constructed in 1938.Next, we drove to the Mauna Kea Visitor Station, which is about an hour drive from Hilo. We could not go all the way to the summit due to children under 13 are not allowed because of the altitude. However, visiting the station and gazing at the stars through the telescopes that they provide was an amazing experience. I highly recommend vising Mauna Kea with a very warm jacket as it is cold at night.
DAY 5
After a really late night exploring Mauna Kea, we decided to take it easy on our last day in Hawaii.
We had a relaxing day shopping and exploring Kona.This is the view from one of the shopping centers in Kona.This is Hulihe‘e Palace which is located on Ali‘i Drive in Kailua-Kona. This has been the home to many Hawaiian royalty over the years. Due to time, we did not tour the palace, however, it is open daily from 9am-4pm and admission is $10/person.We ate lunch at Evolution Bakery which unfortunately is now permanently closed. It was a quaint vegan cafe with tons of gluten free options.The sign at Kona international airport.We had a very late flight out of Kona International Airport. However, waiting outside to board the plane was a first for all of us. This is the view from the benches that we sat on while we waited to board. The view was a wonderful way to end our 17 days in Hawaii.
I am so glad that we were able to spend four amazing days on the Big Island. We had no idea what to expect but were pleasantly surprised. While Oahu will always be the island for me, I highly recommend visiting the Big Island at least once. No other island can provide so much variety of terrain, climate, and things to see.
